dilluns, de gener 15, 2007

Descobrint nous sectors: Cingle de Sant Roc

[15 gener]

Ja fa temps que amb el meu germà comentavem que era estrany que al cingle de Sant Roc, entre Bonmati i Sant Marti de Llemenà no trobessim ressenyes de vies d'escalada. Va ser la casualitat que trobes l'altre dia una referència a BTTGirona sobre una activitat de Via Ferrada en la passada edició del Mercataventura.

una part del cingle de Sant Roc

Així avui he aprofitat i m'he apropat a la zona on en una mescla de Trail Running d'aquest.. i exploració per l'altra, he voltat per la zona (primer un intent fallit per el poble de Barroca) despres des de peu de cingle, sortint de la carretera entre Bonmati i Sant Marti. Si be l'intent de trobar la ferrada que puja fins a Sant Roc (que pensava que seria trivial) no ha estat fructifer, si que he trobat diverses vies d'escalada (en part m'ho esperava). La sorpresa més interessant arribaria al veure que aprop de l'ermita arriben dues vies d'escalada equipades amb parabolts (en una de les quals encara es veia el polsim que deixa el taladro al foradar per posar el parabolt).

Via "Iaia Pilar"... que seguint la linia més fàcil arriba fins a dalt del cingle (parabolts).

Algunes vies amb equipació no fiable (burils podrits), alguna sembal que es podria auto-assegurar amb material.

Itinerari: Tot i que hi han diferents itineraris de pujada, en el nostre cas hem pujat pel corriol que sortint del pla del forn ( km 1,5 de la GI-532 ) ens porta fins a les cases abandonades de Can Poller, d'allí surt un cami marcat amb marques grogues i marques vermelles que ens mena per la dreta dels cingles fins al pla de Sant Roc. Allí empalma amb la ruta de les ermites del Palau Robert (marques blanques) per deixar-nos a l'ermita mateix, si seguim endavant seguint les marques blanques arribarem al grau de Santa Maria que ens permetra arribar seguint marques vermelles i més tard taronjes fins al peu del cingle, d'on surten algunes vies d'escalada.

Un detall de la diferent equipació que s'ha trobat per la zona.. els burils (majoritaris) fant bastanta por.. i més quan veus que algun sostre que te bastanta pinta d'haver de passar-se en artificial.

Els burils... ja es veu un a dalt al mig.. com han quedat.
A baix a la dreta detall d'una reunió (hi havia un altre parabolt adicional que no surt a la foto)

Aps.. i just davant tambe tenim el cingle de Roca Fesa (direcció a Rocacorba).. algun dia hi haurem d'anar a donar un cop d'ull que tambe es veu pedra a dojo.

Apart.. una curiositat: la bauma de la xemeneia. Es una bauma on s'han trobat restes arqueologiques de fa 19 000 anys, segons sembla els autoctons de la zona aleshores tenien un sistema peculiar de caça consistent en despenyar els cavalls pel cingle i recollir les restes a sota per menjar. Aixi dins aquesta bauma trobem restes fossilitzades d'animals, principalment de cavalls. Aps.. es diu de la xemeneia.. perque des de dints hi ha un forat/escletxa que ens permet veure el cel des de dins.. diuen q es bastant interessant.

48 comentaris:

PGB ha dit...

Colló, quin lloc més "extrany". A veure si ens deleites amb alguna ressenya complerta del sector ;) Ara que tens bona càmera...

Ah! Pensa també amb el totxo que vem veure pel Montgrí... També li debem una visita! :D

Piter ha dit...

Eps Pere..

doncs si hi haure de tornar a mirar-ho amb més detall que avui ja havia perdut molt de temps per trobar-ne l'accés.

Aps.. l'altre dia em va comentar un company que havia escalat a Ullà, pero que no en sabia de ressenyes. El toxto aquell queda pendent.. a veure si trobem un dia per acostar-nos-hi.

Apa.. vagi b!!

K. ha dit...

Ets tú qui ha preguntat per aquesta zona a Caranorte?

Piter ha dit...

Doncs si.. de fet vaig preguntar abans d'anar-hi, pero sembla ser que ningú en sap res.

Per cert oskar.. quina putada lo del teu blog no? a veure si es soluciona tot rapid..

Apa.. vagi b!

Anònim ha dit...

Molt bones! e flipat sincerament e flipat! la via "iaia pilar" la e oberta jo i el meu pare, pero lo bo es ke tot just fa 1 setmana ke en vaig publicar la seva existencia a "ressenya.net", i tu ja l'has trobat abans! =)
impressionant!
t'agrego el msn, ke ja e vist el teu mail, i si vols et passo la ressenya (es cutre) i te n'explico tot el que se,oks? ns veiem!

Piter ha dit...

Ondia doncs es una bona quasualitat, doncs era el primer cop que m'apropava a la paret a buscar-hi possibilitats.

Ja tinc la ressenya, a veure si en breu puc anar-hi a donar un cop d'ull, el primer llarg ja em va semblar que era més assequible, el 6c de dalt no se si el podrem treure... no obstant quan tingui un moment m'hi apropo a veure que tal.

Apa.. vagi b! ja parlem pel msn (haig de dir que no hi acostumo a estar gaire).

p.d.: penjare la teva ressenya al link que tinc de la paret.

Anònim ha dit...

ei! ja e vist ke as trobat el link de la ressenya, doncs mira el primer llarg es resol molt be, i el segon jo nomes le pogut probar en tope-rope, i em vaig penjar algun rato, el meu grau de primer es 6b com a màxim..per aixo...jeje
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Hola em dic Pau, busccant ressenyes he vist la teva pàgina web, i mira, tinc un colega que va anar a vire a st. esteve de llèmena, i passant per la recta amb el cotxe sempre ens miravem la paret de l'ermita de st roc. Així ke un dia vam anar a treure el cap per alla a vere si vèiem vies, i només vam veure la ristra de burils de la teva fotografia.
Era per a vere si tens les ressenyes de la via de la iaia pilar?

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