Reentré: Sudeste Classica al Midi
Després d'una temporada un tant friki (amb bastants posts pendents), calia tornar a l'ambient classic, que res millor que anar a una emblematica muntanya com el Midi d'Ossau i pujar per una de les seves linies alpines. La proposta com no.. d'en Marc, acompanyats de l'Edunz i finalment també de l'Arnau que no pot resistir-se a una proposta tant engrescadora. La cordada Foment (Piter-Arnau) ens vam posar inicialment a la Sudeste Directa (que vam abandonar al veure el seu quart llarg) i vam seguir per la Sudeste Classica, mentre que al cordada Marc-Edunz van engrescar-se amb la Ravier a l'Embarradere.
La muralla de Pombie amb la ruta marcada per Luichy , les vistes cap al refu..
i l'Arnau mirant ressenyes al refu.
Primera foto: http://lanochedelloro.blogspot.com/
i l'Arnau mirant ressenyes al refu.
Primera foto: http://lanochedelloro.blogspot.com/
Situació: Des del refu de Pombie, molt evident sortint pel caminet de la normal al midi, i desviant-se cap a la paret en algun dels nombrosos caminets. El peu de la Directa es reconeix rapid, l'arc del 6b es veu molt clar. Per la Clasica, ens haurem de desplaçar bastant més enlaire (aquell dia algunes cordades es van colar per on no tocava i van venir a veurens a la Directa).
Itinerari: Sense lloc a pèrdua, hi ha nombroses ressenyes que en detallen en major o menor qualitat el recorregut (la d'en luichy es de les bones, no esta de menys portar-ne alguna altre per contrastar). En quant a llargs i similars... hi ha nombroses possibilitats de reunió, tot i que també dependrá de les cordades que tinguem al davant. L'ambient guapo, i hi han llargs increiblement bons.
Seguint l'itinerari marcat per en luichy... a mi em van agradar especialment el L2 de la Directa amb un 6b (V+/A1) guapissim, ja a la Classica els llargs L5 amb les escales/grades, el L6 amb una bavaresa increible, els diedres del L8, el flanqueig finet del L10 i la chemeneia del L11 per citar-ne alguns trams. La via es molt bona i totalment recomanable.. fins i tot, alguns trams més de grimpada no se'm van fer gens llargs i els vaig disfrutar moltissim.
Material: nosaltres portavem un joc de camalots del 0,5 al 3 repetits, mes el semafor d'aliens, els tascons i bagues variades. El num. 4 prescindible.. tot i que si l'haguessim portat l'hauriem fet servir, jeje. Portar del 0,75 al 3 repetits, va de nassos. Cordinos i mallons per la baixada no esta de menys..
L'escalada: Sortim a quarts de sis de la matinada del parking de la carretera, i amb poc més de 1h ja ens trobem al refu. Observem la paret i ens despedim de la cordada Marc/Edunz que s'en van a l'Embarradere a fer la Ravier, amb l'Arnau ens mirem la paret la nit anterior després de debatrens bastant entre la SE Classica i la SE Directa, ens hem decidit per la Directa.
La cordada a peu de via... l'Arnau arribant en diferents trams del L3 de la Directa.
Arribem a peu de paret... trobar la via es fàcil, el semiarc del L2 es inconfusible. Sense debatre gaire.. l'Arnau es posa al primer llarg de tramit (sort que era de tramit.. que amaga algun passet que deu n'hi do) i arriba a la R1. El seguent llarg, 6b (V+/A1) es increiblement bo... un tram resseguint l'arc.. sortida a placa i arribada a reunió per un diedre en diagonal guapissim. El seguent llarg de la directa s'inicia per unes grades per anar a buscar un placa al costat d'un diedre en direcció a un sostre groc d'es d'on ens desviem a la dreta per anar a buscar la repisa als peus del gran diedre. Aqui ens ho repensem... l'horari no es l'adequat, son les 12h i la cordada que tenim al davant que anava més suelta al 6b... s'hi ha estat una bona estona per pujar el seguent llarg. Opció assenyada: abandonem al llarg i seguim per la Classica que ens deparará escalada més comode.
El punt d'abandonament de la Directa
Ens acoplem a mig L4 de la Classica, per agafar els trams més rectes d'aquesta gran via. Aqui comencem amb les reunions al nostre rotllo... influenciats per les cordades precedents. L'Arnau la vibra a la placa de V+... es troba caravana i munta reunió abans de les grades. El que s'ha perdut !!! buaahh.. els esglaons aquests son descomunals... i empalmar-los amb la bavaresa de V+ ja es per crear un llarg de somni !! Li cedeixo el seguent tram de diedre que tampoc desmereix res i ara si que ja ens arribem fins a la R6. D'aqui anem a la R7... ens trobem una repisa molt comode amb una fisura que puja recte amunt... es bo pujar-la que just a sobre trobem reunió en una nova repisa amb dos o tres pitons.
Diferents trams bonissims de la via.
A partir d'aqui...ens trobem un diedre collonut... que abandonem a l'altura d'un pont de roca per flanquejar a l'esquerra fins a dos pitons. El seguent llarg rarot.. ens deixa a una repisa als peus d'un sostre groc, i d'aqui ja uns passos raros per pujar enlaire i flanquejar a la dreta a buscar un prat. Aqui la via es comença a tumbar... i ens depara una xemeneia de V amb un pas de pujar a un bloc enclastat.. que te la fa vibrar bastant, almenys a mi de la tensió del pas casi em lesiono el braç jeje (anava pensant que estava a un IV...i despres al mirar la ressenya posava clarament que allo era un V, i sembla que no.. pero hi ha diferencia !!). L'últim llarg es pot dividir en dos tranquilament... que sino roça la corda una burrada... sino explicali a l'Arnau... que va relliscar.. i entre roces, xicle i histories es va fotre un vuelo dels bons !!! Amb encastament de friend del 3 inclos... m'hi vaig barallar una estona intentant-lo treure, pero al final entre els consells de deixar-ho estar de l'Arnau i que es feia tard el vam abandonar a la seva sort (suposo que algu amb més manya se l'endura de record).
Més fotos de la via.
L'Aventura del descens: Al cim de l'Agulla... no fem ni la zancada ni histories per accedir al segon cim, es tard i cal anar avall. Primer de tot indicar que hi ha multiples instal·lacions enmig de la paret, pel que es un descens facil de l'agulla.
Nosaltres, destrepem fins al rapel.. i comencem una mecanica bastant organitzada per tal d'anar molt rapid alhora de baixar (aqui ja rebem trucada d'en Marc per saber que tal van les coses). Després d'assegurar millor alguna reunió algo precaria... arribem a la base del que semblava que ja hauria de ser l'últim rapel. Trucada d'en Marc... estan al bar del poble, i els informo que ja estem acabant... que passem el refu els truquem i ens venen a buscar.... pero no podia ser tot tant facil.
L'Arnau estava tirant de les cordes... quan de cop em mira i no recordo exactament que em va dir... pero diria que era si havia desfet el nus de cap de corda, jo ni vaig respondre... vaig agafar la corda roja i vaig tirar amb força: no baixava estava enganxada. Després d'alguns intents moguent-nos a dreta i esquerra (estavem en una repisa bonissima i ample, protegida per un gendarme, entre la R2 de la Directissima Sud i la R3 de la Surplombs), una bona repisa per quedar-se a dormir vaig pensar. Però be.. s'havia de probar de sortir, entre varies histories s'ens havia fet de nit intentant fer baixar la corda... i al final vam iniciar una escalada nocturna amb la intenció de intentar fer baixar la corda des de més amunt. Al cap d'uns quants metres la fisura per la que pujavem (diria que era la linia de la Lily Marleen) es posava més tiesa... aprofitant un merlet consistent, em vaig assegurar be i vaig tirar de la vermella... increible es va moure !!!! No recordo que vaig dir... pero es notava l'alegria, un destrepe assegurat i a baixar l'últim llarg, bé... ara ja no ho teniem tant clar.. no es veia el terra !! Pero si.. al final arribavem a baix sobrant -hi algun metre.
Les cares de cansament... contrasten amb l'alegria de quan acavabem de baixar de la paret.
I d'aqui... a baixar entre blocs.. per arribar al refu. Increible... pero no hi havia cap llum a partir de les 22h30... i va ser algo caotic arribar-hi sense cap referencia per seguir. I després arribar al cotxe.. on vam arribar a quarts d'una i on ens estaven esperant els dos companys... ja teniem una anecdota per explicar amb aquesta via.
p.d.: bufff... quina parrafada que m'ha sortit.... res que va ser una sortida increiblement bona !!!
I ara.. per a proximes sortides tenim alguns objectius:
Fotos de http://isuel.iespana.es/ i www.todovertical.com
86 comentaris:
Hola Piter...vareu fer exactament el mateix que nosaltres fa uns tres anyets,si fa o no fa.
Quan vam veure com ens va costar el llarg de 6b de la Directa,vam decidir baixar el llistó,assegurar i seguir per la Clàssica.
Una abraçada.
Alaaaa Pere quin post més xulo, he disfrutat una miqueta escalant amb vosaltres i tot. Ay nano que mica en mica em ficareu al lio aquest d´escalar! Bueno, que consti que m´alegro que ho hagiu passat bé, que dins de tot, no us hagi passat res i de veure que heu actuat conseqüentment i amb tot bastant controlat.
Esos son mis chicos!!
Aupa!
Esteu fets uns cracks!! Vaja aventura!
Fa molts anys que vaig darrere de la SE Directa però no m'acabo de decidir mai...je,je,je... mai em trobo preparat, ja, ja, ja!
I dèu n'hi do quins projectes que t'esperen... que hi hagi molta sort!!
A tibar-li!
Noi, quina reentré més bona ! A veure si la continuació també ho continua essent, fins i tot amb un quasi bivac a la baixada....
Com els hi va anar als de l'Embarradere ?
Doncs pots trobar la info al foro d'en marc. Van desistir perque no veien clar si estaven a la via o estaven fora d'ella. http://www.my-forum.org/Sortides_CAC_183285/Embarradere_al_Midivia_Ravier_307.html
I suposo que l'edunz fara alguna entrada tambe.. pero aquest esta de vacances.. així que potser tarda a fer l'entrada.
Apa.. ens veiem.
Ei
Josep crec que la opció aquesta queda molt be.. almenys diuen que els primers 3 llargs de la Classica desmereixen una mica.
Buchi.. la via llarga mola molt, les experiencies son brutals !! Quan vulguis... anem a escalar !!
Mohawk... quan en vulguis anar a fer una semblant si et falta company avisa !!
Joan, quan estiguis recuperat n'anem a fer una d'aquestes classiques, que son les millors !!
Ostres, vaya peaso escalada!
El Midi té una cosa especial, oi?
Felicitats per l'aventura!
He vist que un dels següents objectius és el Narnjo... quan hi aneu? Nosaltres anem uns dies als Picos d'Europa i també el volem fer! Ja heu decdit per on?
Pedroooo!
Deu n'hi dó amb l'aventura, nano!
He disfrutat molt llegint-la. Quina putada deixar el friend del 3 i encara sort que no vau haver de picar bivac!
Aquestes es de les escalades que es recorden, eh? :)
Aquest any n'hem de fer alguna, però hauras de baixar una mica el llistó, que estas a anys llum de mi, tant de grau com de coco com d'experiència ;)
Gemma: Buff.. el midi em va agradar molt, el tenia com un dels llocs on cal anar.. ara es un dels que cal tornar.
Al Naranjo es un objectiu... pero no hi ha res decidit. Fa poc em van parlar d'anar a fer la Murciana, a veure si la cosa tira endavant. Segurament a curt termini.. el mes facil seria Ordesa.
PGB: nano... a veure quan et tornes un classic !! Les vies classiques son les que es recorden a llarg termini,... be, hi han jornades d'esportiva que també es recorden molt jeje
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A man begins icy his insight teeth the initially chance he bites off more than he can chew.
As your conviction is strengthened you will find that there is no longer the dire to be suffering with a discrimination of oversee, that things inclination stream as they at one's desire, and that you drive flow with them, to your great appreciate and benefit.
A human beings begins sneering his discernment teeth the initially often he bites off more than he can chew.
As your obligation is strengthened you determination unearth that there is no longer the requisite to be suffering with a intelligibility of repress, that things inclination flow as they will, and that you purpose bubble with them, to your great delight and benefit.
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To be a adroit benign being is to from a amiable of openness to the far-out, an gift to trust undeterminable things beyond your own restrain, that can take you to be shattered in uncommonly exceptionally circumstances as which you were not to blame. That says something uncommonly weighty relating to the fettle of the principled passion: that it is based on a trustworthiness in the up in the air and on a willingness to be exposed; it's based on being more like a weed than like a sparkler, something fairly fragile, but whose acutely precise beauty is inseparable from that fragility.
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To be a upright human being is to from a amiable of openness to the far-out, an ability to guardianship undeterminable things beyond your own restrain, that can lead you to be shattered in unequivocally exceptional circumstances as which you were not to blame. That says something uncommonly weighty with the condition of the honest compulsion: that it is based on a conviction in the uncertain and on a willingness to be exposed; it's based on being more like a plant than like a prize, something kind of tenuous, but whose very precise handsomeness is inseparable from that fragility.
To be a good lenient being is to from a philanthropic of openness to the world, an ability to trusteeship unsure things beyond your own control, that can take you to be shattered in hugely exceptional circumstances on which you were not to blame. That says something uncommonly outstanding about the fettle of the righteous life: that it is based on a trustworthiness in the uncertain and on a willingness to be exposed; it's based on being more like a spy than like a jewel, something kind of feeble, but whose extremely precise attraction is inseparable from that fragility.
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To be a upright charitable being is to from a philanthropic of openness to the mankind, an skill to group undeterminable things beyond your own control, that can govern you to be shattered in uncommonly exceptionally circumstances pro which you were not to blame. That says something remarkably weighty about the condition of the ethical life: that it is based on a trust in the fitful and on a willingness to be exposed; it's based on being more like a spy than like a treasure, something fairly dainty, but whose very particular handsomeness is inseparable from that fragility.
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Distress ferments the humors, casts them into their adapted channels, throws substandard redundancies, and helps cosmos in those confidential distributions, without which the association cannot subsist in its vigor, nor the typification role of with cheerfulness.
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As your conviction is strengthened you will-power declare that there is no longer the emergency to have a meaning of control, that things commitment flow as they will, and that you discretion surge with them, to your fantabulous joy and benefit.
Kid labor and poverty are inevitably bound together and if you endure to use the labor of children as the treatment on the sexually transmitted disability of want, you will demand both penury and child labor to the supersede of time.
Be not indignant that you cannot make others as you desire them to be, since you cannot make yourself as you hope to be
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